Another hot summer day great for holiday makers but a bugger to work in, so I decided to leave the house at 8am as a start to my road trip which would take me all the way to Finiki, near to Finikounda.
I decided that I would be nice to myself so I packed my towel and bathing suit, a large flask of ice cold water and a frappe cafe packed with ice cubes to sip at on my way.
First stop was to be the village of Kalochori which is off the Rizomilo-Pylos road (to the left) just after the cross roads at Kazarma where we can turn right to cut across to Hora.
Now Kalochori is a village that I first visited some years back and have grown to love basically because it is a true Greek village and there is absolutely nothing touristy about it. Set on the hilltop with glorious views of the surrounding countryside and a surprising good view to the sea from the main square of the village which looks down the hillside towards Petalidi.
I sussed around locating a plot of land for sale which an Athenian had bought without seeing and luckily found it, with use of the topographic diagram but also a goat herder who knew the owners of each piece of olive grove around him.
I then tried to find a village house that I had been instructed to find, photograph and market but couldn't locate it, none of the villagers knew of a house for sale (strange) and so I left that one for another day and set off to wind my way down to the coast road and Petalidi.
I normally head off out of Kalochori and take the sharp right just before the village of Paneperi, but this time I was obviously 'day dreaming' and drove straight through and found myself taking the road to the left, since it seemed to be moving towards the sea I shrugged my shoulders and decided to explore. A great idea since I discovered another country lane which wanders down the hillside and comes out exactly where I would have come out if I had taken the right turn! I also saw the view towards the sea and over to the Taygetos mountains at another angle and discoverd a very very large wooden house set on the hillside and surrounded by trees ??? as well as a neighbouring large house ???? These I will have to do some detective work on to find out what sort of property and whose property.
I was now on the coast road which takes us through Petalidi moving towards Koroni and then onwards to Finikounda and Methoni. I had instructions to head off from Nea Koroni or up from Harakopeio in order to find a hilltop hamlet called Mistraki. I decided to drive up through Falanthi and found the villages above well sign posted and a delight to explore.
Mistraki is a classified 'traditional village' and it was with great pleasure that I arrived at the beginning of the village street which is wide and paved with a sprinkling of traditional stone homes with jasmine and roses growing with abundance in every garden and all the Greek elderly ladies pottering around with the daily chores. The usual morning greetings were exchanged and the usual questions answered with a smile and I found the property that I had arranged to see. Beautiful and well worth the visit. Stunning views, stunning house with grounds and pool and great potential. I spent at least 2 hours here and then moved slowly down the hillside again taking a new route via another delightful village called Kaplani and ended up coming out on the new main coastal road just outside Finikounda.
The new road bypasses the village and you shoot past and continue on your way to Methoni. I hate this road! Sorry, there is no other way to describe it. It reminds me of the Costa del Sol back in the 70s - developements going up everywhere all concrete boxes - glorified council housing in the sun and most of the complexes only half built and looking abandoned now. Ugh! More so Ugh! after having spent 2 hours in a beautiful traditional village up on the hillside that is loving preserved.
I had to find the beach of Lampes (not difficult) and turn right to head up the hill to the village of Finiki, a village that I like apart from the fact that developers have moved in and seem to be constructing rows of concrete boxes!!! Anyways I was shown a large flat parcel of land ideal now for concrete boxes and offer an ice cold coffee in the shade of a vine of a village house with large courtyard. The Greek couple who live in the village permanantely and the wife being originally from the village of Kaplani nodded their heads and smiled when I explained my feelings of shock for the state of the village after having just come down from Mistraki.
I still had another plot of land to find, which I couldn't and since I was feeling hot and exhausted I decided that beach towel and bathing suit was to be put to use so I shot down the hillside and over the main road to the sandy beach below. Stripped off (I put on the bathing suit) and hit the sea or rather walked and walked (its very shallow over there) and then just lay in the shallow sea to cool down; wet my head and then out, towel wrapped around me, in to jeep and off back to Kalamata via Yiamgia (to see if there was much damage from recent small fire), down in to Harakopeio and back along to Kalamata
Arrived back home around 4pm feeling hot, happy with a productive day and a sneaky swim, but also hungry and exhausted. Naturally, there is no rest for the wicked (and I was obviously wicked in my youth) I had to hit the office around 6pm to make some phone calls etc.
So there you have it a day in the life of .... me!


